In April 2015, I set out to explore the steep rocky slopes of the legendary Hermitage hill. My experience in Barolo two years prior had exposed me to one of the greatest wine growing regions on the planet; I wanted to traverse new ground and embrace another. Hermitage, home of the mighty Syrah, producing the most revered wine in the Rhône, perhaps the world, was the obvious choice.
The hill is iconic. The chapel at the top overlooking the craggily decent of the vineyard’s ancient soils is an unmistakable image. The names on the hill are some of the biggest in the business: Chave, Chapoutier, Jaboulet to name a few. The name itself conjures the lure of shelter, refuge, safety and a place to rest with a big glass of wine. Who doesn’t want that?
But beyond the imagery and ancient lore of the icon are people, like I encountered in Barolo, working the land as their ancestors did to make great wine from their local terroir. As they will tell you, soils across the greater hill originated from four different geological periods to create dozens of different soil types. Whether traditionally blended or bottled as a single vineyard wine, each vineyard produces a distinct impression of Syrah.
While Hermitage is the hub of Northern Rhône, like many wine growers of the region, I was inspired to explore beyond the hill. From Hermitage, my 2015 expedition took me to Côte Rôtie, Cornas, St. Joseph, and Crozes-Hermitage; growing regions for Syrah with terroir, history and international reputations of their own. These appellations, as well as those for white wine in the Northern Rhône, will be discussed in this book.
Cote Rotie: Blonde and Brune Juxtaposed